written by Carol
Kufner of
Winwood German Shepherds
Wouldn't you like to stop an ugly problem before it
becomes a vicious habit? Some of these techniques will also work on
older dogs that are already biting seriously. Remember this, however: an
older dog who has bitten is likely to get more aggressive temporarily
before he gives up and becomes the darling you've always dreamed of. I
always feel it's worth a try to stop biting before giving up and putting
a dog to sleep. But be prepared, at first. The rule of thumb is this:
you must end up the winner - in each session. If he growls and you
correct him, you must continue to correct him until he stops growling at
you. If you don't, he will know that you have backed down, and then, my
friend, it's all over. With an entrenched biting problem, it might be
worth seeking the help of a professional trainer. Follow the twelve tips
in this article, the problem should never arise in the first place.
1.NIP NIPPING IN THE BUD
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Nipping is the forerunner of biting, if it goes unchecked. Yes, your
puppy is teething and needs to chew but you don't want him to get the
idea that human flesh belongs in his mouth. Even if his nips are
"loving" and gentle at first, he's learning a bad lesson. As he rows
older, bigger and more confident - a natural part of his growing up -
his bites will become harder and harder. Play it safe and stop him now
while he's small. Try a firm "NO." If he nips again, give him a slap
under his chin and say "NO" as you do it. Moderate the force you use to
his size. If he's a Miniature Pinscher, flick your finger under his
chin. If he is a full blown stallion of a Doberman (just an example)
slap upward under his jaw with all your might. You're in more danger of
breaking than he is, so do it and break a bad habit before it is too
late.
2. USE YOUR NOODLE - USE HIS LEASH
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The leash is your training equipment and should be respected as such by
your dog. He should not chomp on it, play with it or drag it around the
house. When training him (you are training him of course!!!), he
learns that when his leash is on, you can make corrections. If your
little biter is no longer a puppy but still pint-sized, correct him for
nipping or biting by tossing him to the left, the right, and back again,
using a short least. Say "NO" as you do it. This will remind him of the
shaking he got from his Mom when he was a bad puppy, and will convince
him of the seriousness of his crime. It's also safer for you,
particularly with small dogs, than a slap under the chin.
3. NEWSPAPERS ARE FOR KINDLING
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Read your Sunday paper and then toss it into the fireplace. Or save it
for the Boy Scouts recycling drive, BUT, whatever else you do, don't use
a rolled up newspaper to hit your dog. When agitating a dog for
protection training, the trainer may use a stick or rag to provoke the
dog. your rolled newspaper can have the same effect. If your dog needs a
whack (he may, sometimes), use your hand. Your hand will praise him and
it may correct him. But hold off on hitting as much as possible. It is
an inappropriate correction for housebreaking and normal disobedience,
especially with a puppy. There are softer, better ways that work.
4. "NO" AND "OK" WITH FOOD
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Food is sometimes the inspiration for biting problems. In the wild,
canine types snarl, growl and bite to defend their portions. But you
supply all the chow your darling needs. He doesn't need to defend his
bowl and bone. Begin by telling him "OK" whenever he gets something to
eat. After a week or so, hold out a dog biscuit and if he tries to take
it, firmly tell him "NO". At the point where you get him to resist it
and wait, tell him "OK" and let him have it. Furthermore, praise him for
taking it at the right time. Teach him that he cannot have food until he
hears the magic word "OK." Practice with a biscuit or his food dish no
more than once a week. Too much fooling with this good exercise can make
him crazy. He'll never know when he can have what he sees or keep what
you give him. So an occasional "NO" is in order and a daily "OK"
whenever he's fed or gets a treat.
5."ENOUGH"
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This unusual and subtle command is a winner. "No" means what you are
doing is wrong. Never do it again. "Enough" means that what you are
doing was OK, but it no longer is. Too complicated for a dog? Not by a
long shot. It can be used to stop wildness, excessive barking and
roughhousing. It is an excellent tool in biting prevention. It will make
your dog look classier than Lassie. Teach it primarily through the tone
of your voice. If you need to, physically take hold of your dog and stop
him from whatever he's doing, saying "Enough." Try it. You'll love it.
6. LIMIT ROUGHHOUSING
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I can't in good conscience tell you never to roughhouse with your dog.
If it turns you on, do it, but not before he learns "Enough", nor before
you can sense when it's time to stop. Rough play should not include your
puppy biting your arm, pulling on your clothes, or any form of tug of
war. It should never be done by children. Don't let the kids tease your
dog or swing their hands in front of his face. A little sane horseplay
is great for dogs and masters. But don't do it to the point where your
dog gets carried away and loses his hairy head. That's when biting can
occur. When you play with your dog, play it smart.
7. EXPOSURE TO THE WORLD
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If you stayed home all the time, you'd be depressed, bored, and you'd
probably go bananas. Your dog won't show it the way you would, but
believe me, he bored too. Worse than that, the lack of exposure to the
world he lives in makes him afraid. Imagine if one day you went for a
walk and everything you saw was strange to you.....funny things sped by
in the street, strange animals of all sizes loomed up before you, you
were plunked into the middle of a huge crowd. Some biting problems come
from fear. Those that are genetic are another story, but some fear
problems come from a lack of exposure. Take your dog for a stroll, out
of the yard, off the block, around town. He's a doll!!! Why not show him
off!!! He'll thank you in ways you can't imagine. He'll be more sure of
himself, less fearful, more poised and confident. You'll both look
forward to these outings.
8. APPROPRIATE PRAISE
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Always encourage behavior you want repeated by praising your dog. He's a
simple soul and will respond marvelously to this simple device. Often
people will try to "calm" an aggressive dog by petting and soft talk
--this is inappropriate praise. The results are exactly opposite to what
you want. Only praise your dog when you're sure he's doing what he
should be doing. Use an obedience command such as the down-stay to calm
him when he's wild.
9. APPROPRIATE CORRECTION
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Like you, most of us melt when a soft, furry creature gives us a soulful
look with limpid, shining eyes. But, when your perfect angel pulls your
pants, thumps you in the chest, drags you down the street or teethes non
your hands, correct him. "No," said firmly and seriously, works wonders
with canines. So does an appropriate whack under the chin (an upper-cut)
or a good shaking on the leash. If you don't clearly and strongly
correct bad behavior, it will continue. Problems don't go away by
themselves. They get corrected or they grow worse. Your dog's nature as
a pack animal ensures this. Either you're the boss.....or he is. So
praise him when he's good and correct him when he isn't. Here is the key
to a well behaved dog who will never become a biter.
10. TEACH HIM HIS LIMITS
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If you want the kind of dog who can go anywhere with you, will be
trustworthy with children and who will never, never humiliate you by
growling at a judge, teach him his limits when he's young. The secret
here is to end on a positive note whenever possible. It makes it easier
on you and on your bones. No, you can't relieve yourself indoors but
yes, you can outdoors. No, you can't nip my hand but yes, you can gnaw
on your toys. Round it out, make it complete. Replace a NO with a
resounding YES. It's a happier, saner way to teach limits than by saying
nothing but NO all day long.
11. THE LONG DOWN-STAY
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Surprised? This command is a lifesaver, a gold mine, a dog's best
friend. Many "well trained" dogs are cleverly humoring their proud
owners. That's why some dogs who know all the basic commands still
become bullies and biters. Their thinking goes like this: "OK, now he
wants me to lie down. That was long enough. Now I think I'll go play
with the cat." Many owners are so thrilled with the one minute sit-stay
and the three minute down that they never get beyond it. Or they are so
proud of a down with no distractions that they never work for a down at
the National Cat Show. To my mind, a dog that won't stay put where you
want him to, when you want him to , and for as long as you want him to
is not a trained dog. Build the down-stay so that your dog will do it
for one hour. Cured? I'd love someone to put me on a long down-stay
after a hard day's work!!! If he's bored, he can go to sleep. He
probably will. The long down-stay will convince your dog that you are in
control. It is a gentle way of getting an important point across. It
will serve you well when your dog goes visiting with you, has a long
wait at the dog show or is stuck waiting at the vet's on a busy
Saturday. It can be the instrument to firm up all the rest of his
training. It's the easy dark horse winner of this whole list.
12. A STITCH IN TIME
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No surprise here. You could write this paragraph yourself because while
you're saying, "He's too cute," or "She's too small," you know better.
Don't wait until you have to call in the Marines. Do what is necessary
now. Formal obedience work shouldn't begin until your puppy is four
months old, six for group training. But sane play, teaching house
manners, showing limits and stopping nipping should take place much
earlier. A good, clear, loving but unsentimental look at your puppy will
tell you what he can absorb and what he can't. Dogs aren't born bad.
Given half a chance, your puppy can grow up to be the solid, gentle,
trustworthy and reliable dog you want. And he'll love you all the more
for educating him.